Twill fabric
A weave: cotton, wool or synthetics. A diagonal rib pattern: each thread passes over 2–3 crosswise threads. Denim, gabardine and chino are all twills.
How it feels
Dense with a soft drape.
Season: All year round – depends on the weight.
What it's used for
Trousers (chinos), jackets, coats.
Chinos, the trench coat and blazers – a classic, tidy look.
Pros
- Hard-wearing and hides stains
Cons
- Harder to clean than plain weave
Care: a typical label
Always follow your own garment's label – blends and finishes change the care.
How it's constructed
Twill weave. Threads pass over two or more crosswise threads, stepping along each row – making diagonal lines. Denser, drapier, hard-wearing and good at hiding marks.
A little history
Twill has been known since antiquity; its famous forms are denim, gabardine (Burberry's trench) and chino.
How to recognise it
Read the surface: diagonal lines mean twill, shiny and slippery means satin, a raised nap means pile, sideways stretch means a knit.
Sustainability
A weave's footprint depends on the fibre it's made from – check the composition on the label.
When buying
The same weave behaves differently in different fibres: silk and polyester satin look alike, but only silk breathes. Always read the composition.
Frequently asked
01What is twill?
A weave: cotton, wool or synthetics. A diagonal rib pattern: each thread passes over 2–3 crosswise threads. Denim, gabardine and chino are all twills.
02Is twill a natural fabric?
It's a weave or knit – whether it's natural depends on the fibre it's made from.
03Does twill shrink?
It can: twill may shrink about 3–5% the first time it's washed hot. Cool water and no dryer prevent it.
04Is twill breathable?
Moderately: it depends on the weave – open twill breathes far better than dense.