Denim fabric
Cotton, often with elastane. A twill with indigo-dyed lengthwise yarns and white crosswise yarns – that's why denim is pale inside.
How it feels
Sturdy and stiff, softens with wear.
Season: All year round – depends on the weight.
What it's used for
Jeans, jackets, skirts, shirts.
Dark denim reads smarter, light denim more casual. Double denim works when the shades differ.
Pros
- Durable, ages beautifully
Cons
- Indigo fades and bleeds
- Shrinks in heat
Care: a typical label
Always follow your own garment's label – blends and finishes change the care.
How it's constructed
Twill weave. Threads pass over two or more crosswise threads, stepping along each row – making diagonal lines. Denser, drapier, hard-wearing and good at hiding marks.
A little history
From the French 'serge de Nîmes'; Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis patented riveted jeans in 1873.
How to recognise it
Read the surface: diagonal lines mean twill, shiny and slippery means satin, a raised nap means pile, sideways stretch means a knit.
Sustainability
A weave's footprint depends on the fibre it's made from – check the composition on the label.
When buying
The same weave behaves differently in different fibres: silk and polyester satin look alike, but only silk breathes. Always read the composition.
Frequently asked
01What is denim?
Cotton, often with elastane. A twill with indigo-dyed lengthwise yarns and white crosswise yarns – that's why denim is pale inside.
02Is denim a natural fabric?
It's a weave or knit – whether it's natural depends on the fibre it's made from.
03Does denim shrink?
It can: denim may shrink about 3–5% the first time it's washed hot. Cool water and no dryer prevent it.
04Is denim breathable?
Moderately: it depends on the weave – open denim breathes far better than dense.