White tie for men: what to wear
Black tailcoat + white piqué waistcoat + white bow tie + high-waisted trousers with two braid stripes.
State dinners, royal balls, the Nobel banquet, some opera and charity balls. Always in the evening.
- When
- Evening only (after 6 pm)
- Tie
- Yes
- Jeans
- No
- Sneakers
- No
Three outfit ideas
By the book
A black wool tailcoat, white piqué waistcoat, stiff-fronted wing-collar shirt, white bow tie and patent oxfords.
With decorations
The same tailcoat with orders or medals on the left lapel – usual and expected at state receptions.
In winter
Tailcoat, a long black wool overcoat, a white silk scarf and leather gloves – removed at the door.
What to wear
- A black tailcoat (short in front, tails behind)
- A white stiff-fronted shirt with a wing collar
- A white piqué waistcoat and white bow tie
- Trousers with two silk stripes, worn with braces
Shoes
Black patent oxfords or patent court shoes.
Accessories
Cufflinks and studs, a pocket watch (not a wristwatch), a white pocket square.
What to avoid
- A tuxedo – that's black tie
- A black bow tie
Colours
Men: black and white only. Women: any colour, except white at weddings and loud prints.
In summer
The code doesn't change with the season; in summer women can choose lighter silks and chiffon.
In winter
In winter: velvet, heavy satin, a long evening coat or a faux-fur stole.
Details that make the difference
- Jacket sleeves should show 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff.
- Trousers without turn-ups and with a minimal break; for formal codes held up by braces, not a belt.
- Socks: black, fine and over the calf – no skin should show when you sit.
- Never fasten the bottom button of a jacket; a one-button dinner jacket is fastened when standing.
About white tie
The most formal evening dress code: tailcoat for men, a full-length ball gown for women. White tie descends from 19th-century evening dress, when the tailcoat was a gentleman's everyday evening wear. In the 20th century the more comfortable dinner jacket replaced it, so today it appears only on rare occasions – the Nobel banquet in Stockholm, the Vienna Opera Ball, state banquets.
Morning dress for men
A black or grey morning coat + striped grey trousers + waistcoat + tie.
Other codes for men
Frequently asked
01White tie: is a tie required?
Yes – a tie or bow tie is required here.
02White tie: are jeans OK?
No – jeans are too casual for this code; choose tailored trousers.
03White tie: are sneakers OK?
No – choose leather shoes.
04What's the difference between white tie and black tie?
White tie means a tailcoat, white waistcoat and white bow tie; black tie means a tuxedo with a black bow tie. White tie is more formal and far rarer.