Dark circles and puffy eyes: eye cream, patches and what works

The eyes give tiredness away first. The skin under them is delicate and thin; beneath it lie blood vessels covered by a thin layer of fat that easily holds fluid. That is why the area reacts so quickly to lack of sleep, salt, allergies and rubbing.

This guide explains how to choose an eye cream by its ingredients, why the under-eye area puffs up and darkens, what eye patches, cold and massage really do, how to apply eye cream and when it is worth seeing a doctor.

Three different under-eye problems

Problem	Common causes	What helps
Puffy eyes, under eye bags	Fluid after sleep, salt, alcohol, allergy, age, genetics	Cold, a higher pillow, less salt in the evening, a caffeine eye cream
Dark circles	Thin skin and visible blood vessels, genetics, lack of sleep, sun, rubbing, allergies	Sleep, sunscreen, a cream with vitamin C or niacinamide, concealer
Fine lines and dryness	Dry skin, sun, expression, age	Hydration, retinol at night, sunscreen, sunglasses

Sometimes what looks like a dark circle is a shadow, cast by a puffy lid or by the hollow that develops under the eye with age. A cream will not change that colour.

How to choose an eye cream by ingredient

New York dermatologist Cheryl Karcher has explained why different eye creams list the same ingredients: the base is the same, and a few components create the different effects.

Ingredient	What it does	Choose it for
Hyaluronic acid	Draws and holds water; temporarily smooths shallow lines	Dry, tired skin, by day
Ceramides	Lipids of the skin barrier; protect against dryness	Dry and sensitive skin, day and night
Retinol	A vitamin A derivative that speeds skin renewal	Fine lines, at night only and in a low strength
Peptides	Used in cosmetics to support firmness	Lines, when retinol is too strong
Vitamins C and E	Antioxidants; brightness	Dark circles, dull skin
Caffeine	Temporarily constricts blood vessels	Morning puffiness
Niacinamide	More even tone, a stronger barrier	Dark circles, sensitive skin

Her rule is simple: protect and hydrate by day with hyaluronic acid and ceramides, and help the skin renew at night with retinol.

Do you need a separate eye cream at all? If your face moisturiser is fragrance-free and does not irritate your eyes, you can use it there. A dedicated cream helps when your face products are too strong or you want a particular ingredient such as caffeine. The full routine is in our skincare routine guide.

How to apply eye cream

1. A pea-sized amount is enough for both eyes.
2. Apply it on the bone under the eye, not right at the lashes: it spreads by itself.
3. Tap with your ring finger from the inner corner towards the temple.
4. Eye cream goes on after serum and before face moisturiser, and before sunscreen in the morning.
5. Start a retinol eye cream every third night.

How to get rid of puffy eyes

Puffiness has everyday causes: too little sleep, salt and alcohol in the evening, allergies, crying. With age the tissues that support the eyelids weaken, fat shifts into the lower lid and fluid gathers under the eye, so bags become permanent. They often run in families.

• Cold. Wash with cool water and hold a cool damp cloth or chilled spoons on the area for a few minutes.
• Tea bags. Steeped, cooled black or green tea bags on closed eyes for 5–10 minutes. Tea contains caffeine.
• Cucumber slices. They work mostly through coolness and moisture, and ten quiet minutes help too.
• A higher pillow. With the head slightly raised, less fluid collects around the eyes.
• Less salt and fluid before bed. Salt makes the body hold water.
• Remove make-up. You will see the result of skipping it the next morning.

How to get rid of dark circles

When blood vessels show through thin skin, the area looks blue or purple; with more pigment in the skin, brown. Causes include genetics, lack of sleep, allergies and eczema, rubbing the eyes, sun, age and smoking.

• Sleep. Enough of it, in a cool, aired room with curtains that keep out early light.
• Do not rub your eyes. Rubbing and scratching make the area swell and can break small vessels.
• Sunscreen and sunglasses. Sun darkens pigmented circles.
• Cold. It constricts the vessels, so bluish circles lighten for a while.
• Gentle massage. After your morning shower, massage around the eyes with your fingertips for two or three minutes, from the temples along the lower lid towards the nose.
• Eye cream. With vitamin C, niacinamide or caffeine. Allow several weeks.
• Concealer. A peach-toned concealer cancels blue. Models do the same: after a flight to a casting they hide dark circles with concealer.

Put nothing on your eyes or lids that can irritate them: garlic, lemon, boric acid or essential oils.

Eye patches and masks

Eye patches and hydrogel masks are a quick way to hydrate and cool the skin before an event, a shoot or after a short night. They hydrate more than a cream because they cover the skin and stop water evaporating, but the effect is temporary. Keep them in the fridge and wear them for 10–20 minutes before make-up. How to choose masks for the whole face: face masks: how to choose.

Under-eye massage and devices

Beauty therapists massage the eye area with devices that help trapped fluid move on. At home, rollers and massagers copy the principle: a cool metal surface and a light stroke from the nose towards the temple.

The Mind University shop has the Red light under-eye massager, a red LED light and micro-vibration device for cosmetic care of the skin around the eyes. It is used for a few minutes a day and pairs well with an eye cream. It is a cosmetic care device, not a treatment. For the whole face there is the Photon therapy mask.

When to see a doctor

• Swelling appeared suddenly, on one side only, or with redness, itching or pain.
• Not only your eyes swell, but also your legs or whole face.
• Dark circles or bags are getting worse quickly for no clear reason.

Puffy eyes can come from allergies, thyroid, kidney or other health problems, so in those cases get checked first. Permanent bags caused by age and genetics are only softened by creams; procedures are something to discuss with a doctor.

Before a shoot or a big day

1. The night before: less salt and alcohol, sleep on a higher pillow.
2. In the morning, five minutes of cold: spoons, a compress or patches from the fridge.
3. A caffeine eye cream, then face moisturiser.
4. A thin layer of concealer only where it is darkest.

If you would like a specialist to match make-up and colours to your face, that is what an image consultation is for.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best eye cream for dark circles?

One with vitamin C, niacinamide or caffeine. If the circles are inherited or caused by thin skin or a shadow, a cream will soften rather than remove them.

How do you get rid of puffy eyes fast?

With cold: hold a cool damp cloth, chilled spoons, tea bags or eye patches from the fridge on the area for a few minutes.

How do you apply eye cream?

Tap a pea-sized amount with your ring finger on the bone under the eye, from the inner corner towards the temple. Do not rub or apply right at the lashes.

Do eye patches work?

They hydrate and cool well, so the skin looks smoother and less puffy for a while. The effect is temporary, which makes them useful before an event or shoot.

What causes dark circles under eyes?

Mostly genetics, thin skin, lack of sleep, allergies, rubbing, sun and age.

Why are my eyes puffy in the morning?

Lying down lets fluid gather in the tissue around the eyes. Salt, alcohol, lack of sleep and allergies make it worse.