How to recognise it
The lace panels are separate pieces on the front, so the lacing can be loosened. Often a thicker sole and a simpler silhouette than oxfords.
Where it comes from
Open lacing spread in the 19th century in the army and on hunts because the shoes were easier to put on. The name is linked to the Earl of Derby, though the true origin is unclear.
Who and when it suits
More comfortable for a wide or high instep, they suit every day and smart casual. With jeans and chinos derbies look natural.
Variations and look-alikes
They come plain, brogued, on a thin or chunky lugged sole, in smooth or grained leather. Chunky derbies are a fashionable alternative to oxfords. They differ from oxfords in their open lacing.
How to style it
- Wide feet: derbies are more comfortable than oxfords.
- Chunky soles suit wide trousers.
- With jeans every day.
- Condition the leather before the season.
Similar styles
Frequently asked
01How do derbies differ from oxfords?
Derbies have open lacing, so they suit a wide foot but look less formal.
02Do derbies go with a suit?
With a less formal suit, yes; a strict suit calls for oxfords.
03Why are they called derbies?
The name is linked to the Earl of Derby, though the true origin is unclear.
04Do derbies suit women?
Yes, especially chunky derbies with socks, a skirt or wide trousers.