Face shape guide: find yours and the best haircuts for it

Most of us look for a new hairstyle in magazines and on social media. Yet whether a cut will suit you depends on your face shape far more than on the trend. A well-chosen cut can change how you look; a badly chosen one works against you every morning.

This guide shows how to work out your face shape in a few minutes, which haircuts and bangs suit each of the six shapes, who a bob and a short cut work for, and what to tell your hairdresser.

What is my face shape? How to find it

Tie your hair back, look straight into a mirror and compare the size of your forehead with your cheeks and chin. For a more exact answer, take a soft tape measure and note four things:

1. Forehead width. Across the widest part of the forehead, from above the outer end of one eyebrow to the other.
2. Cheekbone width. From the highest point of one cheekbone, below the outer corner of the eye, to the other.
3. Jawline. From the middle of the chin to the corner of the jaw below the ear; double it.
4. Face length. From the centre of the hairline to the tip of the chin.

Then see which measurement is largest and whether your jaw is rounded, angular or pointed.

Face shape	How to recognise it	What the haircut should do
Oval	Length about one and a half times the width, forehead slightly wider than a softly rounded jaw	Keep the balance; almost anything works
Round	Length and width nearly equal, full cheeks, rounded chin	Lengthen the face
Square	Forehead, cheekbones and jaw about the same width, angular jaw	Soften the corners
Heart	Wide forehead and cheekbones, narrow pointed chin	Add width at the chin
Oblong (long)	Clearly longer than wide, forehead, cheeks and jaw similar in width	Add width, shorten
Diamond	Cheekbones widest, narrow forehead and narrow chin	Balance forehead and chin

Oval face shape

An oval face takes hair of any length and almost any cut. You will look good with short and with long hair, though one length usually works best. Long, fine waves are especially flattering, and so is a sharp chin-length bob. Avoid very short choppy cuts that lengthen the face further, and if your hair is thick or curly, heavy one-length cuts. Celebrities with oval faces: Kate Hudson, Jessica Alba, Jada Pinkett Smith, Beyoncé, Uma Thurman.

• Works: long waves, a chin-length bob, sleek one-length hair, a pixie, any bangs.
• Avoid: heavy pieces that cover your balanced proportions.
• Parting: centre or side.

Hairstyles for round faces

To make a round face look slimmer, add height at the crown and keep the cheeks and chin uncovered. Try longer cuts with shorter face-framing pieces; if your hair is long, natural curls work too. Avoid blunt one-length cuts, lots of layers at the sides, short curly hair and chin-length cuts. Celebrities with round faces: Fergie, Kate Bosworth, Oprah Winfrey, Cameron Diaz, Kirsten Dunst, Michelle Williams, Catherine Zeta-Jones.

• Works: long layers below the chin, volume at the crown, a long bob to the collarbone, a side parting.
• Avoid: blunt heavy bangs, a rounded chin-length bob, volume at the cheeks.
• Bangs: long and side-swept, or curtain bangs.

Hairstyles for square faces

A square face suits medium-length hair and shorter, asymmetric bangs. To soften the features, layer the hair at the sides and nape. Short tousled styles and light, fine waves work well. Avoid boxy cuts, poker-straight hair and geometric lines, which sharpen the angles, and the chin-length bob. Celebrities with square faces: Gwyneth Paltrow, Demi Moore, Angelina Jolie, Jessica Biel, Isabella Rossellini, Rosario Dawson, Sandra Bullock.

• Works: shoulder-length or longer hair with waves, layers starting below the jaw, a side parting.
• Avoid: a blunt chin-length bob and straight heavy bangs that repeat the jawline.
• Bangs: soft, wispy, side-swept.

Heart shaped face

Chin-length and longer hair is the best choice: a cut that frames the chin and adds width to it. A chin-length bob does exactly that, and curls look lovely too. Do not go too short at the nape, skip harsh layering and avoid styles that emphasise the upper part of the face. Celebrities with heart shaped faces: Katie Holmes, Jennifer Lopez, Rachel Bilson, Reese Witherspoon, Zhang Ziyi, Eva Longoria, Naomi Campbell.

• Works: a chin-length bob with fullness at the bottom, shoulder-length waves, ends that curve towards the chin.
• Avoid: height at the crown and very short cuts that expose a wide forehead.
• Bangs: side-swept or curtain bangs, which narrow the forehead.

Oblong face shape

A long face suits long bangs and cuts that add width. Hair cut bluntly and worn to one side brings out your features, and medium-length curls are ideal. A chin-length bob works because, like waves and curls, it widens the face. Avoid very long hair with a centre parting and very short hair, and in general anything that adds length, such as height at the crown. Celebrities with long faces: Sarah Jessica Parker, Ashlee Simpson, Gisele Bündchen, Hilary Swank.

• Works: shoulder-length hair, waves and curls with volume at the sides, a chin-length bob.
• Avoid: very long straight hair with a centre parting, volume on top.
• Bangs: blunt or curtain bangs to the eyebrows, which shorten the face.

Diamond face shape

Almost any hairstyle suits a diamond face. Choose cuts similar to those for a heart shaped face, and do not hide your cheekbones under too much hair. Celebrities with diamond faces: Scarlett Johansson, Victoria Beckham.

• Works: a chin-length bob, hair tucked behind the ears, medium layers with fullness at the chin.
• Avoid: volume at the cheekbones and tight updos with nothing left around the face.
• Bangs: light and side-swept, to cover a narrow forehead.

Bangs for your face shape

Face shape	Bangs that suit	Avoid
Oval	All: blunt, side-swept, curtain	Very heavy bangs covering half the face
Round	Long side-swept, curtain	Blunt heavy bangs to the brows
Square	Soft, wispy, asymmetric	Straight hard lines
Heart	Side-swept, curtain	Short bangs that expose the forehead
Oblong	Blunt to the brows, curtain	Very short or none with a centre parting
Diamond	Light, side-swept	Heavy straight bangs that widen the cheekbones

Who a bob suits

The bob is one of the most versatile cuts, but its length should follow your face. A chin-length bob suits oval, heart, oblong and diamond faces best because it adds width to the lower face. For round and square faces choose a long bob (lob) to the collarbone with longer pieces at the front: it lengthens the face and does not repeat the jawline.

Short haircuts by face shape

• Oval: any short cut, a pixie or a short bob.
• Round: a pixie with height on top and short sides.
• Square: tousled, textured short hair with soft bangs.
• Heart and diamond: a short cut with longer side-swept bangs.
• Oblong: skip very short hair and choose a chin-length bob.

Hair type matters too

The same cut looks different on fine and on thick hair, so face shape is only half the decision. Fine hair gains body from one-length and shorter cuts; thick hair needs layers so it does not form a triangle; curly hair is best cut dry so the real length shows.

A good haircut starts with healthy hair. If your hair is thinning, read hair loss: causes and treatment, and for a flaky scalp, dandruff: causes and shampoo. For cosmetic scalp and hair care at home some people choose LED light devices such as the Photon therapy cap from the Mind University shop. It is a cosmetic care product, not a treatment.

Glasses for your face shape

The same rule applies to glasses: the frame should contrast with the face. Angular, rectangular frames suit a round face; round or oval frames suit a square face; frames wider at the bottom suit a heart shaped face; large, tall frames suit an oblong face. Almost everything suits an oval face.

What to tell your hairdresser

• Bring two or three pictures of people whose face shape and hair type are close to yours.
• Say how much time you spend on your hair each morning: it decides whether bangs and layers will work.
• Ask to be shown the length on your own hair before the cut, not just told in inches.
• Unsure about bangs? Start with long side-swept ones, which grow out easily.

If you would like a specialist to match your haircut, colours and clothes to your face and figure, that is what an image consultation is for.

Frequently asked questions

How do I determine my face shape?

Tie your hair back and compare the width of your forehead, cheekbones and jaw with the length of your face. The widest point and the line of the jaw tell you the shape: oval, round, square, heart, oblong or diamond.

What haircut suits a round face?

Long layers below the chin, volume at the crown, a side parting and long side-swept bangs. Avoid a rounded chin-length bob and blunt heavy bangs.

Which face shape suits a bob?

A chin-length bob suits oval, heart, oblong and diamond faces. Round and square faces do better with a long bob to the collarbone.

Which bangs suit my face shape?

Bangs suit every face shape; the type differs. Blunt bangs to the brows for an oblong face, long side-swept or curtain bangs for round and heart shaped faces, soft asymmetric bangs for a square face.

Which face shape is the most versatile?

Oval: its proportions are balanced, so nearly every cut and length works.

Can your face shape change?

Bone structure does not change, but weight and age alter the fullness of the cheeks, so a face can look rounder or more angular. It is worth checking again every few years.